Mount Hinoyama loop trail.

Edogawa Rampo, Mishima Yukio and Yamamoto Shugoro. These three novelists all chose to stop in Toba to write a book at some point in their lives.

Today’s walk consists of following the footsteps of Yamamoto Shugoro’s novel “Ougino” (the fan field) and reaching the top of Mount Hinoyama to discover the fan-shaped landscape before our eyes.

Ougino (扇野)

A collection of nine romantic short stories by the novelist Shugoro Yamamoto, each depicting the deep love between a man and a woman, and loved throughout the ages. The name “Ougino” in the novel comes from the shape of Toba Bay seen from Hinoyama, which is compared to a fan “扇 ougi” in Japanese.

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loop trail
Car park
Trail with
Car park
Trail with
Hiking trail map (from the hiking app Gaia GPS)
Hiking trail elevation and distance profile Hiking trail map (from the hiking app Gaia GPS)

Gaia GPS is a hiking app which covers the latest route status and other climbing information with extensive coverage of trails all over Japan.


Mount Hinoyama hiking route

Exiting Toba’s JR station, Sazae street and the Great Torii from Konpira-shrine

Departure from the JR gate of Toba Station. Toba Station is accessible via JR and Kintetsu Railways. If you are coming by car, please use the car parks around the station. We recommend the car park near the JR Toba Station entrance gate, where the parking fee is reasonable.

If you can’t resist the delicious temptation of Sazae Street, you may want to fill up on some of Ise-Shima’s gourmet food before hiking. But be careful not to eat too much!

As we leave from downtown Toba, you will pass a convenience store and many vending machines in case you forget to buy drinks in advance.

Point of interest ①

Kompira Shrine, Toba Branch

Point of interest ②

Hinoyama viewpoint

Point of interest ③

Hinoyama Summit

Point of interest ①, Kompira Shrine, Toba Branch

From JR station, head towards the centre of Toba.
The path to the shrine is marked
by granite markers like this one
in front of the convenience store.
After passing Jyoanji Temple, a family temple
of the Kuki clan, you will reach the entrance to
the trail leading to Mount Hinoyama.

About 800m from the start, you will find yourself in the centre of Toba.

There are “Kompira shrine” markers all over town. Please use them as landmarks for Mount Hinoyama’s

The city’s atmosphere suddenly became a mountain landscape.

From here we quickly reach the junction with the path to Mount Hinoyama.

The entrance to Hinoyama Trail

The entrance to Hinoyama Trail is located at a sharp bend in the road after you start climbing from Jyoanji Temple. It is very easy to miss if you are not careful.


Pay particular attention to places where it is easy to get lost.

Some 10m up the mountain path.

Please note that the trail is a bit confusing at first. The motto for the beginning of the trail is “zig-zag your way up”. Climb, turn left and climb, turn right and climb… and repeat.

Make sure you walk firmly on the ground to
avoid tripping over pieces of wood.
The trail is truly in the forest. The sound of
leaves rubbing against each other echoes
through the trees as they sway in the wind.
As the elevation increases, the city of Toba
and the sea appear through the spaces
between the trees.
After the first path, we reach a well-kept garden
A big torii welcomes you.

We have arrived at “point of interest ① “, Kompira Shrine, Toba Branch

What is the “Toba Branch” of Konpira-san Shrine?

Konpira-san Toba Branch Shrine is one of the six shrines descended from the first Konpira-san Shrine in Kagawa Prefecture. It was built in 1956 as the sixth Konpira-san shrine in Japan. It houses Konpira, a sea god, and the spirit of Emperor Sutoku. Konpira is also known in Buddhism as one of the twelve generals, assistant to the Buddha Yakushi Nyorai. The shrine is visited by many people involved in shipping and fishing.

By the way, there is a restroom at the shrine. This is the last restroom on the way to Mount Hinoyama.
The route to Mount Hinoyama is past the torii gate and up the stairs. After paying a visit to the Toba branch of Kompira Shrines, it’s time to head for the summit.

Point of interest ②, Mount Hinoyama’s viewpoint

If you turn right (when facing the shrine), this will lead you to a viewing platform that encompasses the town of Toba.

Turn left after the observation platform and continue to climb.
The ground is very unstable so watch your steps

The path is well maintained. Please note that there are lots of thorny plants.

Marker for point of interest #2

We reach a very open and pleasant place. This is “point of interest ②”, Mount Hinoyama’s viewpoint.

A panoramic view of the viewpoint. You can see the town of Toba, the sea, the sky, and the remote islands.
If you are very lucky, you can see Mt. Fuji in the distance.

This is the place chosen to be the setting for Shugoro Yamamoto’s novel “Ougino”. Now, since we have
come this far, let’s go to the top of Mt. Hinoyama.

Point of interest ③ Mount Hinoyama’s summit

Behind the viewpoint, the path continues further back.
I found the “marker tape”!

From here we enter the second half of the trail. Like the first half of the trail, you will continue through thick forest.
The motto for the second half of the trail (including the descent) is “Find the tape and keep going!”.
On the second half of the trail, you will see red tape wrapped around the trees and spread out at equal intervals. Thanks to the person who marked the trail.

It is the end point of the Hinoyama Scenic Hike. The top of Mount Hinoyama is about 160 metres above sea level.

Sit on the bench and take your time to enjoy the view through the trees. It is a very relaxing natural area where the sun shines through the trees and a gentle breeze usually blows. Take a deep breath. You will feel as if you are one with Mount Hino.
You will be surprised to know that such beautiful nature thrives so close to Toba city centre.


Be careful not to fall asleep in the wild!

Safety first. Hinoyama to Toba station.

Shrubs are taking over one of the paths

There are two options for the return journey, it is recommended to follow the route presented here, as the
other path has sections that are difficult to walk.

Overgrown vegetation on the other climbing
Going down the mountain, you will connect to
Kontaiji temple.
With your back to the stairs of Kontaiji
Temple, turn left. Follow the road and you will
meet the convenience store on your way.
Good job ! お疲れ様ですotsukare sama desu


Is there any season you recommend?
Hinoyama is famous for its cherry blossoms, so spring is recommended. Also, you can see Mount Fuji almost exclusively in winter, when the temperature is lower and the air is clearer.
Is there anything I should be aware of?
This is a mountain that can be hiked casually, just make sure you have the right equipment for the hike. Especially atthe beginning of the trail, it is easy to get lost, so check the article. We also don’t recommend climbing in summer, when wasps and pit vipers are most likely to appear.

This hiking trail is visible on Gaia GPS